Meet the Trader: How Maggie’s brings you the Irish feeling

Pic: Maggie Khonoker, Maggie's.
Maggie Khonoker. Pic:Maggie’s

Irish pubs are one of the most loved qualities in southeast London. However, not many can say they have been to an Irish restaurant. That is, except for the customers of Maggie’s Restaurant and Bar. 

London is home to the biggest population of Irish people in England; recently due to poverty forced them to the big city during the 1950s. 

This happened to Maggie Khondoker, who came to England in the 50s herself. After many years in hospitality, where she fell for her husband, Mazid Abdul Khondoker, they decided to start their own cafe.

In 1983, Maggie and Mazid heard from their neighbours that a building was going for sale a short distance from Lewisham Railway Station. With their years of hospitality, they jumped on the opportunity to start their own business. 

Maggie and Mazid were nervous about starting their enterprise; putting all their money into the project would mean there was no choice other than it to go right. 

Maggie’s became a place for customers to feel at home, and it still carries the same essence to this day. Home cooked breakfasts, smiling faces and that feel of Ireland – it is impossible to feel you aren’t in safe hands. 

Maggie’s son, Oliver, now runs the operation with his brother and sister. Unfortunately, the siblings have obtained the cafe through the passing of their parents. Maggie passed away in 2020, after 55 years married to Mazid. Mazid then passed only last year.

Ollie Khondoker in Maggie’s restaurant. Pic: Lula White

Oliver spoke about growing up in the cafeteria: “The shop floor became our kitchen and dining room; my dad was always in the kitchen. He liked to stay in the background and do practical things. There wasn’t a fix-it job he couldn’t do around the shop. 

“Mum was the star of the show. She would be the one to greet everyone; I mean, I shared her with the customers; she was a mum to everyone. People wouldn’t just come in for breakfast before work; they would come in for Maggie.  

“Locals would come in sometimes just to talk things through with her and get some advice. She always liked that though, our mum, she was great. I can still feel her coming around the corner asking if you want more tea, in that thick Irish accent.” 

Still open to this day, the move to digital card machines and tills is the only change the siblings have really made. The name has become a shrine to the lady who made a safe place for so many. 

“She really was a role model you see, the same with my dad. They make you realise what love should be like. I strive to have what they shared,” said Oliver.

“I am very proud to be able to continue to run this place for my parents, even after they have gone. Of course, there have been some changes, but we will never get rid of any Irish feeling to the place; we are proud of it.” 

Maggie’s used to be a place predominantly filled with Irish people, but now the diner sees a mix of all races, ages and backgrounds. From a glimpse around you’ll find families, the elderly, suits and tracksuits. But one thing they have in common is a smile, and a hunger for Maggie’s food.

Locals enjoying their food. Pic: Lula White

The food served at Maggie’s is simple but effective. In a time when everything attempts to be Michelin starred, it is easy to forget how good the classics are. Roast dinners of all kinds; scampi, burgers, sandwiches and jacket potatoes can be found at Maggies.   

Maggie’s booths. Pic: Lula White

It is a surprise that many more haven’t found the secret gem that is Maggie’s. Even the outside of the restaurant feels like a hug from the legendary Irish woman herself, a simple logo and colourful front. It doesnt feel like London at all; it is a place where everyone wants to chat. Taking photographs of the place, I was caught in conversation with a lovely elderly gentleman. In a city where people seem worried about talking to one another, Maggie’s is one of those special places that allows people to just be people and talk. 

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